縫紉線跡基本知識

1、縫紉線跡基本知識stitch 線跡，針腳，粵針步，線步線跡的分類形式很多，年，國際標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化組織對線跡的種類，編號進(jìn)行了規(guī)定，將標(biāo)準(zhǔn)線跡分為大類：100類 - 鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡200類 - 仿手工線跡300類 - 瑣式線跡400類 - 多線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡500類 - 包縫線跡600類 - 覆蓋線跡100類中最常用的是101和103兩種101和103都是是單線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，103常用于暗線挑縫300中最常用的是301，304，308和320其中301稱單針平縫線跡，又是最最常用的線跡，304兩點(diǎn)人字線跡，308三點(diǎn)人字線跡，比301更有彈性400類中最常用的是401，402，407401又叫直線型雙線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，又一條

2、針線一條鉤線組成在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯(cuò)和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡402又稱雙針網(wǎng)底線跡，又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成，通常用于針織褲子的側(cè)縫和手套背面的裝飾線條407表面如三條平行的301線跡，底層則為網(wǎng)狀結(jié)構(gòu)，主要用于車縫橡筋到內(nèi)褲內(nèi)衣上500類中最常用的有504，505，512，514504和505都是三線包縫線跡504廣泛用于制衣業(yè)的鎖邊工序，505主要針對中厚料512和514是四線包縫又稱安全線跡都由兩條針線兩條鉤線組成，只是鉤線與針線的交圈方式上兩陣稍有不同600類中最常用的是602，605，607三種602又稱二針網(wǎng)面線跡，主要用于針織捏儀，運(yùn)動服裝等605又稱三針網(wǎng)面線跡主要用語

3、衣服上縫橡津，切滾條和拼接縫的縫合等工序607是四針網(wǎng)面線跡，有四條針線知識比605加了一條陣線其他類似綜上所述，600類主要用于針織服裝的滾邊，滾領(lǐng)，折邊，拼接縫和裝飾花邊等工序，其實(shí)也就是繃縫啦; )bartack，（bar tack，bar-tack） 套結(jié)，倒回針，加固縫，粵打棗flat-lock stitch，（flat lock stitch），covering stitch 覆蓋線跡，繃縫線跡interlock stitch 聯(lián)鎖線跡，多線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡single thread chain stitch 單線鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，單線鏈狀線，粵單線鎖鏈底針步，（101線跡），（用于假縫，如袋口）

4、103線跡 - blind stitch 暗縫，暗繰針縫，粵挑腳，301線跡 - lock stitch，plain stitch 鎖式線跡，平縫線跡，普通線跡，粵平車針步，（最常見的線跡）304線跡 - zigzag lock stitch 曲折鎖式線跡，鋸齒形鎖式線跡，Z形鎖式線跡，之字形平車針步，粵人字形平車針步，（底面線都是鎖式線跡）401線跡 - single needle chain stitch 單針鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，單針鏈狀針步，粵單針鎖鏈底針步404線跡 - zigzag chain stitch 曲折鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，鋸齒形鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，Z形鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡，粵人字鎖鏈底針步，（面線是鎖式線跡，底線是

5、鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡）406線跡 - 2 needles bottom cover stitch 雙針底部覆蓋線跡，粵雙針網(wǎng)底針步，（用于腰帶袢，針織服裝的袖口、下擺等）407線跡 - 3 needles bottom cover stitch 三針底部繃縫線跡，粵三針網(wǎng)底針步408線跡 - 2 needles chain stitch with cover thread 雙針鏈?zhǔn)奖砻娓采w線跡，粵雙針網(wǎng)面鎖鏈底針步503線跡 - 2 threads overedge stitch 雙線拷邊，雙線包邊，粵雙線钑骨504線跡 - overlock stitch，coveredge stitch，3 threa

6、ds overedge stitch 包縫線跡，拷邊線跡，鎖邊線跡，三線拷邊，三線包邊，粵三線钑骨，（最常見的拷邊線跡）512線跡 - mock safety stitch 假線跡，模擬線跡，（用于彈性面料接縫）514線跡 - 2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch 雙針?biāo)木€拷邊，雙針?biāo)木€包邊，粵雙針?biāo)木€钑骨，（用于彈性面料接縫）515線跡(401+503) - 4 threads safety stitch 四線安全線跡，粵四線安全針步516線跡(401+504) - safety stitch，5 threads safety stitch 五線拷邊，五線鎖

7、邊，安全線跡，五線包邊安全線跡，粵五線钑骨602線跡 - 2 needles 4 threads cover stitch 雙針?biāo)木€繃縫線跡605線跡 - 3 needles 5 threads cover stitch 三針五線繃縫線跡606線跡 - 4 needles 9 threads cover stitch，（flatlock stitch） 四針九線平式繃縫線跡607線跡 - 4 needles 6 threads cover stitch，（flatseamer/flatlock stitch） 四針六線平式繃縫線跡, pearl stitch 珠式線跡，（Used in kni

8、tting，for fancy borders and edges，one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made. Because of this，he received the nickname of perley wilson.）-線跡服飾工藝知識平縫線跡PLAIN STITCH ,FLAT STITCH疏縫線跡BASTING STITCH ,TACKING STITC繃縫線跡COVERING STITCH ,FLAT -LOCK STITCH絎縫線跡QUILTED STITCH嵌縫線跡CORD S

9、TITCH面縫線跡TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH暗縫線跡INVISIBLE STITCH ,BLIND STITCH繰縫線跡SLIP STITCH折縫線跡FELL STITCH倒縫線跡REVERSIBLE STITCH , BACKWARD STITCH包縫線跡OVERLOCK STITCH ,OVERCASTING STITCH ,OVEREDGE鎖式線跡LOCK STITCH ,LOCKSTITCH鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡CHAIN STITCH聯(lián)式線跡CHAINLOCK STITCH人字線跡HERRINGBONE STITCH羽狀線跡FEATHER STITCH珠式線跡PEARL STIT

10、CHZ形線跡CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH角形線跡ANGLE STITCH弓形線跡ARCHED STITCH鋸齒形狀線跡PICOT STITCH ,ZIGZAG STITCH貝殼形狀線跡SHELL STITCH網(wǎng)眼形狀線跡BASKET STITCH蜂窩形狀線跡HONEYCOMB STITCH直形線跡STRAIGHT STITCH雙十字形狀線跡DOUBLE STITCH交叉線跡，十字線跡CROSS STITCH圓形線跡ROUND STITCH廓形線跡OUTLINE STITCH曲折形線跡ZIGZAG SITITCH變形線跡CHANGE STITCH鉤編線跡CROCHET S

11、TITCH織補(bǔ)線跡DARNING STITCH刺繡線跡EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH裝飾線跡ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH花式線跡FANCY STITCH點(diǎn)劃線跡DOT DASH STITCH對稱線跡COUNTER STITCH比翼線跡FLY STITCH特殊線跡SPECIAL STITCH復(fù)合線跡COMBINATION STITCH, SPLIT STITCH復(fù)式線跡DOUBLE ACTION STITCH雙針線跡TWICE STITCH雙重線跡TWICE STITCH三重線跡TRIPLE STITCH縫式線跡SEAM

12、STITCH加固線跡FASTENING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH打結(jié)線跡KNOTTING STITCH扎縛線跡PADDING STITCH袖褶線跡SHIRRING STITCH伸縮線跡STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH滾邊線跡BINDING STITCH卷邊線跡HEMMING STITCH暗卷縫線跡BLINDING HEMMING STITCH拼合線跡ABUTTING STITCH間斷線跡BROKEN STITCH跳針線跡SKIPPING STITCH安全線跡SAFETY STITCH手針縫法繚針法SLIP STITCH拱針法PRICK STITCH明

13、繰針法FELL STITCH暗繰針法BLING HEMMING STITCH環(huán)針法-CATCH STITCH疊針法FASTENING STITCH扎針法PAD STITCH扳針法DIAGONAL BASTING絎針法QUILTING STITCH鎖針法LOCK STITCH倒針法BARTACK STITCH ,BACK STITCH三角針法HERRINGBONE STITCH楊樹花針法FEATHER STITCH花針法ZIGZAG STITCH跳針法SKIPPING STITCH縫線跡PLAIN STITCH ,FLAT STITCH疏縫線跡BASTING STITCH ,TACKING ST

14、ITCH繃縫線跡COVERING STITCH ,FLAT -LOCK STITCH絎縫線跡QUILTED STITCH嵌縫線跡CORD STITCH面縫線跡TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH暗縫線跡INVISIBLE STITCH ,BLIND STITCH繰縫線跡SLIP STITCH折縫線跡FELL STITCH倒縫線跡REVERSIBLE STITCH , BACKWARD STITCH包縫線跡OVERLOCK STITCH ,OVERCASTING STITCH ,OVEREDGE鎖式線跡LOCK STITCH ,LOCKSTITCH鏈?zhǔn)骄€跡CHAIN STITCH聯(lián)式線跡

15、CHAINLOCK STITCH人字線跡HERRINGBONE STITCH羽狀線跡FEATHER STITCH珠式線跡PEARL STITCHZ形線跡CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH角形線跡ANGLE STITCH弓形線跡ARCHED STITCH鋸齒形狀線跡PICOT STITCH ,ZIGZAG STITCH貝殼形狀線跡SHELL STITCH網(wǎng)眼形狀線跡BASKET STITCH蜂窩形狀線跡HONEYCOMB STITCH直形線跡STRAIGHT STITCH雙十字形狀線跡DOUBLE STITCH交叉線跡，十字線跡CROSS STITCH圓形線跡ROUND STI

16、TCH廓形線跡OUTLINE STITCH曲折形線跡ZIGZAG SITITCH變形線跡CHANGE STITCH鉤編線跡CROCHET STITCH織補(bǔ)線跡DARNING STITCH刺繡線跡EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH裝飾線跡ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH花式線跡FANCY STITCH點(diǎn)劃線跡DOT DASH STITCH對稱線跡COUNTER STITCH比翼線跡FLY STITCH特殊線跡SPECIAL STITCH復(fù)合線跡COMBINATION STITCH, SPLIT STITCH復(fù)式線跡DOUBLE A

17、CTION STITCH雙針線跡TWICE STITCH雙重線跡TWICE STITCH三重線跡TRIPLE STITCH縫式線跡SEAM STITCH加固線跡FASTENING STITCH ,TACKING STITCH打結(jié)線跡KNOTTING STITCH扎縛線跡PADDING STITCH袖褶線跡SHIRRING STITCH伸縮線跡STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH滾邊線跡BINDING STITCH卷邊線跡HEMMING STITCH暗卷縫線跡BLINDING HEMMING STITCH拼合線跡ABUTTING STITCH間斷線跡BROKEN STITCH

18、跳針線跡SKIPPING STITCH安全線跡SAFETY STITCH手針縫法繚針法SLIP STITCH拱針法PRICK STITCH明繰針法FELL STITCH暗繰針法BLING HEMMING STITCH環(huán)針法-CATCH STITCH疊針法FASTENING STITCH扎針法PAD STITCH扳針法DIAGONAL BASTING絎針法QUILTING STITCH鎖針法LOCK STITCH倒針法BARTACK STITCH ,BACK STITCH三角針法HERRINGBONE STITCH楊樹花針法FEATHER STITCH花針法ZIGZAG STITCH跳針法SKI

19、PPING STITCH縫型，縫式SEAM TYPE ,SEAM PATTERN結(jié)構(gòu)縫COMPOSITE SEAM普通縫NORMAL SEAM裝飾縫ORNAMENTAL SEAM ,DECORATIVE SEAM連續(xù)縫CONTINUOUS SEAM間斷縫BROKEN SEAM長縫LONG SEAM短縫SHORT SEAM內(nèi)縫INSEAM外縫- OUTSEAM原縫THICK SEAM中縫CENTRE SEAM側(cè)縫SIDE SEAM斜線縫BIAS SEAM繚縫SLANTING SEAM弧線縫CURVED SEAM轉(zhuǎn)角縫CORNER SEAM平縫-FLAT SEAM平接縫SLAT FELL SEAM

20、 ,BUTTED SEA M搭接縫LAPPING SEAM雙搭接縫DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM接合縫JOINING SEAM拼合縫ABUTTED SEAM雙線縫TWIN SEAM鑲色縫CONTRAST COLOR SEAM嵌花縫APPLIANCE SEAM 繃縫，覆蓋縫FLAT LOCK SEAM ,COVERED SEAM來去縫FRENCH SEAM ,BAG SEAM萊克拉縫LYCRA SEAM伸縮縫STRETCH SEAM ,ELASTIC SEAM漏落縫SELF BOUND SEAM坐倒縫LAPPING SEAM開縫OPENING SEAM分緝縫-DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM壓緝縫TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM坐緝縫TUCKED SEAM成形縫FINISHING SEAM ,FASHION SEAM明縫，面縫OUTSEAM ,TOPSTICH SEAM暗縫-BLIND SEAM ,INVISIBLE SEAM暗邊縫HIND EDGE SEAM包縫OVERSEAM ,CLOSED SEAM ,OVEREDGE SEAM ,OVERCAST SEAM ,OVERLOCK SEAM明包縫FLAT FELL SEAM暗包縫WELT SEAM鎖式線縫LOCKSTITCH SEAM連鎖縫INTERLOCK SEAM