DIY 如何自己裝訂書籍 How to Bind a Book

1、How to bind a book 如何自己裝訂書籍step 1Prepare your materialsThis is, unfortunately, going to require some materials that you wont be able to find around your house. I have included suggestions for scrounge materials you could possibly switch in, but no guarantees as to durability or looks. I would also h

2、ighly recommend printing out the entire instructable so that you have it handy- your hands will be full (and sticky!) enought to make going to the computer difficult. Coloured paper is good (so you dont get it mixed in with the other papers), but white will suffice.Youll need: (an overview of what y

3、ou can buy online at *Paper*A papercutter (useful, but not always required)*Scissors*Straightedge Ruler (youll need to measure and crease)*PVA (Polyvinyl Acetate- find bookbinding glue in your local art store (or *Paintbrush for spreading PVAPVA is very durable and flexible- you can make do with Elm

4、ers Glue, but its not as good)*Cover board (I use chipboard because its cheaper but other people swear by binders board , make do with non-corrugated cardboard)*Bookbinding cloth (this is almost completely necessary; if you *have* to make do, glue some cloth onto paper.) *Bookbinding needles (sewing

5、 needles arent strong enough- embroidery might work)*Waxed thread ( or wax some emboidery thread with beeswax ) Dental floss might work, but I havent tried it.*Head Material (also really hard to scrounge; any ideas for in a pinch?) *Cloth for adhering signatures (preferable a loose weave cotton, but

6、 Ive had success with thickish clothing cloth) *Awl (this is also almost essential; try and make do with a pointed compass, but it wont be pleasant)*Pretty paper for the cover*Pretty (thicker) paper for the endpages*Optional bone folder for nicer (flatter) creases step 2Cut and fold the pagesCut the

7、 pages to the proper size, which is the height you want them to be and twice the width So, if I want 8.5 x 5.5 pages, I would use 8.5 x 11 paper (landscape style) Or if I want a 9 x 5 it would be 9 x 10 paper. Then fold them in half hamburger style (fold the long edge in half) and collate them into

8、signatures. A signature is a small packet of pages nesting inside of each other. I personally use 7 sheet (thats big pieces of paper, not book pages) signatures- anything above 9 or 10 is too thick (if there are multiple signatures*), and anything below 3 is too thin and will rip. *If your book is,

9、say, 12 pages only, its okay. But you cant really do more than two or so thick signatures)step 3Mark the signatures for bindingMark 1/2 in from the top edge and 3/4 in from the bottom edge. Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips youll use. In general, three suff

10、ices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if youre really worried. Mark them across the spine. (ie, for the number five, at 5, 10, 15 and 20). Then measure the width of your head material; divide it in half and mark that number to each side of the marking (framing it in, as it were). (Of co

11、urse, this doesnt have to be exact; I do mine by eye.) So, in this example, the purple markings are the head markings and pink markings are the calculated marks, then orange markes are where the edges of the head material will be.step 3Mark the signatures for bindingMark 1/2 in from the top edge and

12、 3/4 in from the bottom edge. Then measure the space in between and divide by the number of binding strips youll use. In general, three suffices. If the book will be thick, use four, or five if youre really worried. Mark them across the spine. (ie, for the number five, at 5, 10, 15 and 20). Then mea

13、sure the width of your head material; divide it in half and mark that number to each side of the marking (framing it in, as it were). (Of course, this doesnt have to be exact; I do mine by eye.) So, in this example, the purple markings are the head markings and pink markings are the calculated marks

14、, then orange markes are where the edges of the head material will be.step 4Cut the cerf and punch the holesNow, using scissors, snip out little triangles at the head and foot marks. (Youre really supposed to saw it with a little hacksaw, but I doubt many people have a handheld hacksaw lying around)

15、. Then punch the awl through the edge marks, careful to punch them directly out of the spine and not the page. Thread the needle with waxed thread. (youll need a lot, but dont get carried away; you can always add more)step 5Cut and sew the bindingsThe bindings need to be cut to the thickness of the

16、book (when all signatures are together) plus an inch or so.The first signature you should sew are the first endpages, followed by signature 1 of the book, then the rest.Insert the needle *into* the head and draw all but about 2 inches through. Then go *out* at the first punch you come to and pull it

17、 tight. Go *in* to the next hole- but make sure that the binding is between the thread and the spine (as in the image). Repeat for as many bindings as there are, then come out through the foot notch. Prepare the next signature.step 6Sew easy! (says the black kettle)Sew up the next signature in the s

18、ame way (except youll be entering at the foot stitch), and then the third. When youre at the bottom of the third (notice the zigzagging back and forth), kettle stitch it to the second.This means to take the needle, put it *under* the thread running between signatures 1 and 2, then put it through the

19、 loop thats formed. From now on, youll kettle stitch the whenever you reach a head or foot.NOTE: It is very important to continually pull the slack out of the thread-the tighter the binding is, the stronger the book!Continue to sew all the rest of the signature in this way, remembering the kettle st

20、itch.If you run out of thread, simply knot a new piece onto in inside the book (tightly) and clip off the tails.When youre done sewing up the pages, add the final endpages, and double kettle-stitch.(Sorry for the lack of pictures- my camera ran out of juice and Ive just moved to a dormitory, leaving

21、 behind the charger. Hope to have them up by next week.)step 7Finishing the signaturesWhen youve sewn all the signatures together, double kettle stitch the final head or foot. Then take the PVA and squirt some onto your finger (or a paintbrush, but you finger works better and its fun to peel off the

22、 glue) then rub it *into* the spine. It is important that some (albeit just a bit of) glue gets in between the signatures and fills in the spine. When this is done, cut a piece of cloth (not bookcloth) to a little bigger than the dimensions of the spine. Stick this onto the wet glue and smooth it ou

23、t. Then cut a piece of heavy cardstock to the exact dimensions of the spine and glue it onto the cloth. Rub it smooth.NOTE: During all this, make sure the bindings are centered and sticking out! I once clipped one off while trimming the card, so be careful.step 8Preparing the coversWhile the spine g

24、lue is drying, pull out your cover material and measure it.You want:The width of the pages plus 1/4The height of the pages plus 1/2(Make these as square* as possible)Make two of these, obviously- the front cover and back cover.It is important to add the extra space so theres overhang and the cover c

25、ompletely protects the pages.Cut the paper you are going to cover the cover with to:The cover width plus 1/2 or 1The cover height plus 1/2 or 1This allows it to wrap over the edges and inside enough. If you look at a bound book, there is about 1/4 of the cover paper on the edges of the inside before

26、 it gets covered by endpaper.Then prepare the spine piece- a piece of coverstock the exact dimensions of the spine. It doesnt need to be papered (itll be covered up by the bookcloth).Glue the coverpaper onto the cover, making sure that it is centered (I like to apply glue to the board, then lower it

27、 onto the paper.)Flatten it and work out all of the air bubbles with something round (Im using a tin whistle in the picture), then apply glue to the edges of the paper, folding it over onto itself. You can either have square folds, or cut them with a knife/scissors into lovely 45 degree dovetails.*S

28、quare means having all 90 degree angles. Or pi/2 radians, if youre into that sort of thing.step 9Cut n Paste (well, glue anyway)Cut the bookbinding cloth.it needs to be:height of the covers plus 3/4 or soamount of cloth you want on the cover (I like 1.5 to 2) times two plus half an inch(so, for exam

29、ple, (1.5 x 2) = 3 + 1/2 = 3 1/2 inches wide)center the cloth on the covers and spine piece, leaving a gap between them (to measure the gap, its helpful to close the covers then hold them still while opening them).There should be excess cloth on the top and bottom.Mark the position of the covers and spine piece, then glue them down. Fold the excess cloth in, then glue it down.Take the prepared signatures and glue the binding strips (and, if theres enough, the cloth) to the inside o